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High-Country Escapism - Skwala Fishing

High-Country Escapism

Flee the heat, crowds, and guilt of late summer trout fishing
by Miles Nolte
Our river valleys often bake in August, with tree limbs covered in road dust and ambient wildfire smoke. Even the rivers, those sanctuaries of cool, offer little respite. The symbolic owls hoot at midday, ceding overheated trout streams to hordes of bloated floaters who tether together massive rafts of inflatable rubber and plastic: unicorns and alligators, SUPs and kayaks, coolers and tractor tires. If enough tubers cover the surface of the water, will they block out sufficient sun to bring down the temps ever so slightly? That would make them more tolerable.

On many mainstem trout rivers, August, not April, marks the cruelest month. Peak fishing pressure often coincides with lethal, or near lethal, water conditions for cold water salmonids. The guides are booked, the tourists are touring, the fly shops are bustling, and riverside parking lots overflow on every renowned river across the West. It’s enough to make you want to hole up and beat your liver for a few weeks.


Fear not, friends. The fishing apocalypse isn’t yet upon us. This month too shall pass, as it always does. In the meantime, we have better options than mainlining A/C while chugging gin and tonics. You could go carp fishing, but golden bones aren’t for everyone, and stalking 80-degree water in full sun doesn’t bring down your core temp.

Instead of drinking and carping (literally or metaphorically), I suggest getting high. (No, not like that, Colorado.) While August may feel oppressive down in the valleys, it’s delicious up in the high country, so grab your 3-weight, a spool of 4X, some floatant, and a puck of dry flies. Oh, and feel free to bring the dog. We’ll be doing some walking.


Head for the Hills

Whether you live out West or you’re just here for summer fun, the mountains are calling, and you would be wise to answer. Most of our famous trout fisheries flow at the bottom of their respective topographies—that’s how gravity works—but those rivers are collections of smaller streams and creeks. If you travel up the watersheds that feed those rivers, you will undoubtedly find cold water, happy fish, and far fewer anglers.

Small mountain streams and creeks offer sanctuary through the hottest weeks of the year. You can still go trout fishing without guilt or fear of harming the resource. Better yet, you’ll get to explore new water and remind yourself of the simple joy that fly fishing can provide.

Consult the Maps

Bust out a map of the mountains around your favorite trout rivers and look for little arterial forks that wind toward the peaks. Chances are those creeks hold fish. Even if they don’t look like much where they meet the main river, they may be bigger than you think. These feeder streams often irrigate nearby farms and ranches. In the heat of the summer, which is also prime growing season, the lower reaches of these streams can get sucked completely dry. If you get up above the agricultural land, however, you’ll probably find a significant waterway.

In many parts of the West, the high country is often (though not always) public land. Use your map to identify any roads or trailheads that offer access to that waterway higher in the mountains. Make sure that the roads, trails, and land itself are public. Digital mapping tools like TroutRoutes and OnX, make this pretty easy, but old-school paper maps that show land ownership work as well.

Look for Lakes

In addition to creeks, August is a great time to explore alpine lakes. Identify potential fishing lakes using the same mapping tools I just mentioned. Fishing apps like TroutRoutes, however, offer a significant advantage, because they will tell you if the lake in question holds fish. Many alpine lake populations are neither wild nor capable of sustaining natural reproduction, so they depend on stocking programs from local fisheries management agencies. Search the state agency’s website for stocking histories. Look for lakes that were stocked four-six years previously, because that’s where you’ll find good numbers of larger, mature fish. If you’re trying to catch the cutty of a lifetime, target lakes that were stocked eight years ago. There won’t be many fish, but you might find a giant or two.

Earn Your Eats

While floating down a river in a driftboat or raft with a cooler full of sandos, snacks, and icy beverages is nice, it doesn’t do much for your fitness. Think of August as an opportunity to burn off some of the calories you put on during the cooler fishing months. Hiking up a couple thousand feet of elevation to wet a line may cross over into the realm of type II fun for some of us, but the reward is worth the effort. Your body will thank you…eventually.

Embrace Minimalism, but Be Prepared

Contemporary fly culture is pretty maximal. When my friends and I go fishing, we bring too much stuff: streamer rods, dry fly rods, nymphing rods, a swinging rod, multiple boat bags, giant fly lockers. We’re so afraid of FOMO that we bring everything for every possible scenario. All that gear gives us options, but it can also detract from the simple pleasure of just fishing. Hiking into the high country requires you to carry every ounce on your back, which necessitates circumspect packing. Luckily, you don’t need much to catch fish and have fun.

These watersheds are the antithesis of technical tailwaters. They generally have low insect densities and short growing seasons. The fish can’t afford to be picky, and with low angling pressure, they eat just about anything that looks like food. A fistful of attractors, terrestrials, and Elk Hair Caddis will probably get the job done, but bring a couple beadhead Hare’s Ears too. Maybe a small, weighted Wooly Bugger, just in case.

While you can get away with little in terms of fishing gear, you need to bring a few essentials for your own safety and comfort. Aside from a quality sun hoody, comfortable hiking/wading pants, and a good pair of boots, you’ll want a few other items in your daypack. Obviously, you should bring a water bottle, purifier, and trail snacks. Afternoon thunderstorms routinely rumble through the mountains this time of the year, so you should also carry a high-quality, lightweight, packable rain shell.

I recommend having a handheld GPS unit with you in the backcountry. Even experienced hikers can find themselves turned around or disoriented, especially when following a creek that meanders away from the trail. At the very least, ensure that your phone is fully charged, has a reputable mapping app, and that you’ve downloaded the map for the area you plan to hike and fish. You might also consider an InReach or other satellite-based communication device in case of emergency. Carry at least a basic first aid kit and a can of bear spray when you’re in bear country.

 

Reset Expectations

We all love giant trout. Everyone wants a two-footer from the Frying Pan, Madison, or Green, where a fish like that is a real possibility on any given day. The high country offers an opportunity to re-calibrate your scale. You might luck into a 16 or even 18-inch fish, but chances are you’ll be hard pressed to break 12. That’s only a problem for the small minded. Spend a day plucking six to eight-inch cutties, brookies, or rainbows from churning pockets of crystal-clear flow, and that ten-inch brown you pull out from under a logjam will feel like a giant, especially if you catch it on a three-weight.

Breathe and Look Around

Mid to late summer brings riotous life at high elevation. Meadows burst with verdant green and vibrant wildflowers. Pikas chirp and scurry along scree fields. You might run into a bear foraging through the forest (if you’re in bear country, carry bear spray on your belt), or maybe a herd of elk or mule deer feasting on all that foliage before the snows fly. While the fishing can be spectacular, this is outdoor escapism at its finest. Much of the appeal blossoms in the margins. Take some time to appreciate the totality of the experience. You might even come to love the sensation of sore legs and aching feet at the end of a long day.

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